A Way of Life
In the heart of Chile’s wild landscapes, far from city noise and well beyond the reach of paved roads, is where many huasos choose to live — horsemen who have quietly shaped southern Chilean rural life for generations.
I don’t know many actual cowboys, but I have a strong impression that similar traits run through all of them: they’re farmers, guides, completely at home in the mountains, and deeply rooted to the land they work and the trails they ride.
From the central valleys to the forested slopes of the south, huasos are at home in places most of us would call remote. Their horses carry them across rivers, through thick woodland, and over high passes — often on paths too narrow or steep to be called trails. For travellers wanting to cross the Andes into Argentina the hard way, it’s usually a huaso who leads the way.
Remote Cabins
I first noticed them on a boat trip across Lago Todos los Santos — tiny wooden cabins scattered across the surrounding hills, with smoke drifting lazily from their chimneys. No roads, no driveways — just trees and mountains.
Those cabins, I learned, belong to huasos who live in places only reachable by horse or boat. Their daily life is nothing like the Argentine gauchos galloping across open plains. Chilean huasos move more like mountaineers, navigating dense forests and near-vertical ravines, with profound knowledge of the land and climate.
Not Just For Show
You’ll spot them at local festivals and traditional rodeos, dressed in outfits that haven’t changed much in decades — short, cropped jackets, heavy wool or silk ponchos, knee-high boots with polished spurs, and always, the wide-brimmed chupalla hat to keep off the sun.
But this isn’t costume — it’s part of their daily identity. And it’s not just about tradition; it’s practical, built for riding long hours in rough terrain, and a source of pride for those who wear it.
On the Road in Rural Chile
One summer, while driving through the Cochamó Valley, I crossed paths with a huaso on horseback. He rode alongside the gravel road with ease, his poncho shifting in the breeze, his horse sure-footed on the uneven ground.
We stopped to ask for directions to a nearby hot spring. He smiled, gave us clear, simple instructions, and didn’t seem the least bit rushed — even in the heat, even mid-ride. Before continuing on, he let me take a photo.
Agile Riders
Then, with a nod, he turned off the road and headed into the trees, guiding his horse towards the forest. Together, they navigated a near-vertical ravine with remarkable agility and disappeared into a wall of jade-green wilderness.
Explore More of Chile’s Natural Wonders
If you liked this post, why not have a look at Local Heart’s feature on Chile’s beautiful and mystical Temperate Rainforest
