Ideal for families, couples, and solo travelers, this unique journey explores the historic waterways once navigated by northern Patagonia’s indigenous tribes.
One of my favorite day trips from Puerto Varas is the journey across Lago Todos Los Santos to the secluded hamlet of Peulla, hidden amid towering mountains along the Argentine border. This tour follows an ancient route once travelled by indigenous people, long before the arrival of Spanish or German settlers.
Ancient Waterways
They would paddle across Lago Llanquihue, trek overland to reach the adjacent Lago Todos Los Santos, and then continue by canoe across its vast, tranquil waters toward Peulla and the trade routes that crossed into Argentina. Imagining these interconnected lakes and paths as essential trade and navigation channels adds a real sense of authenticity to this unique journey.
From Lago Llanquihue to Lago Todos los Santos
Leaving Puerto Varas, the scenic drive to the small town of Ensenada takes approximately 45 minutes. The route hugs the edge of Lago Llanquihue, with the majestic Volcán Osorno growing ever more prominent as you approach. On your right, picturesque farmland and charming wood-shingled farmhouses, framed by dense rainforest, create a postcard-worthy landscape. Upon reaching Ensenada, follow the signs toward Petrohué, just 15 kilometers away, where Lago Todos los Santos awaits. At the lake’s small port, you’ll find a comfortable catamaran ready to take you on to the next part of the adventure.
An Ultra Serene Crossing: Nature’s Beauty & the call to be present
The lake crossing is nothing short of enchanting: On a chilly June morning, we embarked on the journey across Lago Todos los Santos, its glassy waters reflecting mist-covered green hills and forests shrouded in clouds. Waterfalls tumbled gracefully over rocky cliffs, adding to the serene beauty of the scene. As the catamaran glided through this magical landscape, we settled in for the two-hour voyage—chatting, sipping warm coffee, nibbling on snacks, and savoring the rare joy of uninterrupted human connection. In such mystical surroundings, the moment felt like a precious escape from the rush of everyday life.
The Enchantment of Peulla and Its Eco-Tour Adventure
Arriving in Peulla feels very Tolkienesque. Every bit like stepping into another world and quite difficult to imagine actually living in such a remote little corner of the world. But people do. We couldn’t resist booking the “eco-tour,” partly because the rugged “monster truck” looked like an adventure itself.
An Aqua-All-Terrain Monster Truck Adventure
The kids were thrilled as we splashed through shallow waters and bumped along the rugged path, eventually reaching an estuary that flows from Chile into Argentina, highlighting once more how important these interconnecting waterways must have been to the region’s first nations. Our friendly guide offered us a choice of cognac or hot chocolate while sharing captivating stories about the area’s rich history.
Lunchtime and Eco-Friendly Animal Encounters
Back in Peulla, we had lunch at Hotel Natura Patagonia, though the spot is equally perfect for a picnic. Afterward, we wandered through a nearby conservation area, feeding sheep, admiring baby piglets, and petting an adorable pair of donkeys. The experience captivated us all—especially the children.
Travel Tips and Advice for Your Journey
The full trip takes about 8 hours from Petrohué or 11 hours with a transport tour from Puerto Varas. For details on rates and departure times, check with a local tour operator in Puerto Varas.
As always, be prepared: wear sturdy boots, bring a jacket and a hat, and check the weather conditions. Don’t forget sunblock, water, enough cash for unexpected expenses, and your adventurous spirit!
